White Mountain Hike 2004

July 2-7

Monday, July 5


In the morning the the clouds are still heavy but have lifted high enough we can see the top of Mt Washington.   The crew give the weather report as "scattered showers with 15-20 mph winds on the ridge, increasing to 25-30 mph late in the afternoon".  We begin the day's hike expecting to get a little wet but hoping to reach Madison Spring Hut before the winds increase.



We must climb about half way up Mt Washington before the trail turns and follows a contour around the mountain and follows the ridge over the mountains to the north.  We must climb over or around, Mt Clay, Mt Jefferson, Mt Adams and into the saddle between Mt Adams and Mt Madison. As we begin to climb we look back and see the Lakes of the Clouds Hut and Mt Monroe.



As we hike the clouds begin to drop lower, although we can still see spots of sunlight down in the valley.



I catch up with Fred Yarnell just as we reach the tracks for the Mt Washington cog railway.  They are so low that we stuggle to get under them with our packs on.



Looking down we can see the soot and oil covered rocks and lost pieces of coal.  Definitely the ugliest part of the days hike.  Fortunately we are well away before the next train goes by.  When you are too near you have to cover your eyes to avoid getting small cinders blown in by the wind.




The fog is getting lower and the wind has increased to far more than the weather report indicated - at least 30-35 mph and it begins to drizzle.  The rocks are beginning to get wet enough to become quite slippery. 



The wind has increased even more with gusts of at least 40 mph.  I often have to use my poles to steady myself and keep from being blown to the side.  The rain now begins to get heavier.  I put on my rain gear including the hood.  Fortunately it is not too cold so being wet is not too miserable, but the rocks are so wet that each step is treacherous.  I have to take very small steps and test to see if my boot will hold.  I slip a lot and am often saved from a fall by my poles.  I put the camera into a ziplock bag and into the pack, so no more pictures. 

I skip taking the loop trails over any of the peaks - there is no view - and stick to the AT.  As I hike I compose new verses for the Beetles song Yesterday.

Yesterday.  All bad weather seemed so far away
Now it looks as though its here to stay
Oh I believe in yesterday.

Why it had to blow, I don't know, they wouldn't say
I did nothing wrong but I long for yesterday ay ay ay

Yesterday. I thought that hiking was all a game
Now I'm not so sure I feel the same
Oh I believe in yesterday.

Suddenly, I'm not half as dry as I used to be
There's a cloud that's hanging over me
Oh I believe in yesterday.

But finally as I round Mt Adams the wind is blocked by the mountain and then as I begin the decent on the south side of the saddle to the hut the rain stops.  I can look down and see Madison Spring Hut with most of Mt Madison behind it.



I have made very good time.  Taking only 5 hours to reach the hut.  Of course, the weather gave me little reason to linger anywhere.  I did not even stop to eat along the way.  The corn chowder offered by the hut is so much more appealing than my trail lunch that I buy it and eat and relax in the hut. After a little while the sun comes out and I am able to spread my wet clothes and the wet contents of my pack on the rocks and most of it is dry by dinner time.  Others do the same as they arrive, but we all have to rush outside to get our stuff just as dinner is being served because it begins to rain again.

Go on to July 6 & 7